Friday, June 20, 2014

back to the karakoram

Nick Rice on K2 near Broad Peak: 2008 photo courtesy Nick Rice

A Los Angeles-based mountaineer who was on K2 when 11 climbers died in August 2008, then survived a serac fall high on Annapurna in 2010 that left him with a brain injury, is heading back to the Karakoram in Pakistan to attempt Broad Peak, an 8,000-meter summit that rises into the "death zone" within sight of K2.

Rice, 29, has been recovering the past four years and studying to prepare for premed at UCLA, where he's been doing clinical research at Ronald Reagan Medical Center in the emergency department. He's planning to begin full-time studies in microbiology, immunology and molecular genetics this fall, he said in a phone interview June 19.

It was a "car-sized piece of ice" that narrowly missed killing Rice in April 2010 on Annapurna, another of the world's highest, most dangerous mountains, located in Nepal. Debris from the shattering ice block broke his helmet in three places, and doctors warned him to stay below 16,000 feet elevation for six months to a year so that swelling from the deep trauma brain injury could subside, Rice said in a later email. "This is what prompted me to return to university."

Asked why he's motivated to return to the Karakoram to climb to heights where there is not enough oxygen to sustain human life, Rice quoted Jim Whittaker, expedition leader for the first American team to summit K2 in 1978:

Being out on the edge with everything at risk is where you learn and grow the most.

"I return from every expedition a changed person," Rice said. "I've gone through a lot of traumatic experiences on many of my climbs, but each has taught me something important, and I'm equally grateful for my successes and failures."

Rice is planning to climb Broad Peak with three Spaniards, including experienced Himalayan climber Catalina Quesada, 45, of Sevilla, who teamed with Rice on a recent expedition to 23,400-foot Peak Lenin on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, former republics of the Soviet Union. Climbing veterans Maria Pilar Agudo and Carlos Garranzo round out their team.

Catalina Quesada and Rice on Peak Lenin: 2013 photo courtesy Nick Rice
Rice said he is planning to fly Monday June 23 from LAX to Dubai, then to Islamabad where he'll meet up with Quesada, Agudo and Garranzo. Weather will dictate when they fly onward to Skardu in northeast Pakistan.

After ensuring their equipment arrives safely, they'll jeep from Skardu to Askole, and from there begin the 12-day trek to Broad Peak base camp at around 18,000 feet elevation, Rice said.

"We will use Pakistani porters to help us to bring our food and equipment to base camp only but will not use High Altitude Porters for the actual climb above Base Camp," Rice said.

Broad Peak's summit stands at estimated 8,047 meters - 26,400 feet - above sea level. Five climbers, three Iranian and two Polish, died on Broad Peak in 2013. According to AlpinismOnline and other sources, more than 20 others have died on Broad Peak since 1975.

The first ascent of Broad Peak was accomplished in 1957 by four Austrians: Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger.

Rice and his team do not plan to use oxygen on their summit attempt. Rice said he plans to return to Los Angeles on Aug. 9. Rice was born and raised in Hermosa Beach and he lives in the Carthay Square area of LA, near Fairfax and Olympic.

For background see:

Karakoram Story

'Death Zone'

Cowboys on K2


Thursday, June 5, 2014

unofficial mayor of angelus oaks: mountain businesswoman fondly remembered

Janet Audrey Dickerson: 1934-2014
Janet Audrey Dickerson: 1934-2014

A mountain businesswoman who ran the Country Store on Highway 38 in Angelus Oaks for more than 25 years was remembered Thursday during a memorial service in Beaumont.

Janet Audrey Dickerson died May 28 in Angelus Oaks. She was 79.

Between 1981 and 2007, Jan and her Country Store were well-known to generations of mountain residents, visitors, and travelers along a 50-mile stretch of the 38 between Mentone and Big Bear.

She was insightful, savvy and hardworking, and she made the store an essential destination for campers, fishermen, hikers, hunters, snow-players, motorcyclists, bicyclists, public safety personnel and everyone else in between.

"Country Store Jan" was known for her generous heart and ready smile, and she was respected and adored by those whose lives she touched, family members said in an obituary notice.

Pastor Dennis Sattler of Amethyst Bible Church in Mentone recalled Jan as a dear friend and trusted neighbor when he lived across the street from the Dickersons in Angelus Oaks from 1995 to 2001.

Jan understood the mountains and people who are drawn to them, and she knew her central role in her community included responsibility, Sattler told scores of family, friends and loved ones at Weaver Mortuary Chapel on Thursday afternoon.

She once gave her store keys to fire department personnel with permission to distribute food and drink to whoever needed it in the event of fire or earthquake, Sattler said.

"She lived this life with all of us loving her," Sattler said. "'This is the closest to God we get,' she used to say of the mountains."

Pattie Dickerson of Calimesa recalled working with her mom at the Country Store beginning in 1991.

"This is when my mom and I became very close," Pattie said, reading from handwritten notes. "Now I was no longer just her daughter, I was her business partner and her friend.

"She taught me to work hard," Pattie said. "Sometimes, in the whirlwind of summer activity in the mountains, or winter with chain sales, it was very, very hard work. She taught me that a job you love is not a chore. Not just an eight-hour day, but an unmeasurable collage of work and fun and unforgettable people.

"She taught me her sense of duty and how to treat everyone who came through that door as the most important person in the world."

The following is from the Dickerson family's obituary, posted by Weaver Mortuary: 

Jan Dickerson ("Country Store Jan"), long time Angelus Oaks business owner and resident, joined the love of her life, Larry, in heaven on Wednesday, May 28th after a peaceful passing, surrounded by loved ones in her mountain home.

Born in Spokane, Washington in 1934, her family relocated to Belmont Shores in Long Beach when she was nine. It was while walking the beaches of Long Beach that, at the tender age of 18, she met Larry, a handsome, engaging Marine who was on leave before deploying to the battlefields of Korea. After a long year Larry returned to marry his sweetheart and embark on almost 60 years of a life together.

Jan and Larry raised their family in Santa Ana, California, but while on a hunting trip in the mountains, Larry discovered a beautiful little town names Angelus Oaks. He convinced his frugal wife they needed to purchase a lot. Little by little they built their mountain home with the help of friends and family. It was here that they shared their fondest memories. When their children were grown, they made this vacation cabin their permanent home and both started new careers- Larry as a sheriff and Jan as the owner/proprietor of the Country Store. The rest is history.

What a magical childhood she gave to both her children and grandchildren. She was a hands-on Momma and Grams, turning off the television and introducing those she loved to the mountains she loved. She took time out of her busy schedule to babysit her grandchildren and tried her best to attend all ball games, dance recitals, and honor ceremonies. She was such an integral part of her grandchildren's lives that even their friends regarded her as their "Grams."

Janet Audrey Dickerson photo at Weaver Mortuary, Beaumont, Calif.

Jan lost her beloved Larry in November of 2011. She is survived by her brother George Nason of Long Beach, CA and her sister Carol Ryan of Pueblo, CO. She will be deeply missed by her children Donald and Deedee Wells of Norco, Charlene Cochran of Angelus Oaks, Michael and Evelyn Dickerson of Yucaipa, and Chris and Patti Willard of Calimesa. Her absence will be acutely felt by her grandchildren Desiree, Danielle, Brandon, David, Dusty, and her newest admirer, her great-granddaughter Alorah.

Jan's life was celebrated by friends and family on June 5th, three days before she would have celebrated her 80th birthday. Private burial for Jan is planned at Riverside National Cemetery.

For more information and photos, visit the Janet Audrey Dickerson page at


Wednesday, June 4, 2014

city of redlands pd's new mrap

The City of Redlands Police Department invited reporters and photographers to view their decommissioned military surplus Mine Resistant Ambush Protected vehicle for the first time Wednesday June 4.

"Redlands Police Rescue" is stenciled on the sides of the flat-black painted International MaxxPro MRAP, which cost taxpayers more than $500,000 to manufacture, according to the Department of Defense.

Redlands PD acquired its MRAP in September 2013, along with police from the cities of Banning, West Covina and Gardena. The Banning police MRAP sustained two blowouts and crashed into a civilian's pickup truck during the convoy from Fort Bliss in El Paso, Texas. The Redlands police MRAP sustained no damage in the crash.

Ray Rodriguez, a City of Redlands truck driver, told Watershed News he drove the Redlands MRAP to Los Angeles and back about two months ago for its paint job, and it handled "like a Cadillac."

"I left a nickel on the back of the bumper here, and drove it from L.A. to Redlands, and it stayed on there," Rodriguez said. "When I got here it was still on the bumper."

Rodriguez said he got several reactions from other motorists.

"A lot of thumbs up. Some were blowing kisses. . . . the girls were blowing kisses."

Redlands Police Chief Mark Garcia describes his department's MRAP as a "rescue vehicle" to improve RPD's ability "to protect our community against any threats."

The ballistic rescue vehicle is a tool police can use in response to an active shooter or similar volatile, violent incident, Garcia says.

"The vehicle, provided at no cost to the City, was one of some 165 of the surplus vehicles provided to police departments nationwide as part of a national military surplus program started by President Bill Clinton in the 1990s," City of Redlands spokesman Carl Baker said in a statement distributed Wednesday.

"The Redlands Police Department applied for the MRAP to repurpose as a ballistic capable rescue / tactical vehicle that could be used to enhance the safety of officers and the public when responding to active shooter-type incidents," Baker said.

"Since that time, the department has repainted the vehicle and reconfigured the interior to make it suitable for its deployment as a rescue vehicle. While the vehicle includes a turret that will serve as an observation platform for officers, there are no weapons mounted on the vehicle," Baker said.

"The $28,000 cost to retrofit the vehicle was paid for entirely with asset seizure funds - the allocation RPD receives from the proceeds of property seized from convicted drug dealers. No General Fund money was used to purchase or retrofit the vehicle."

Redlands Police MRAP: June 4 2014

The MRAP is a military vehicle, "so the military paid money for it, which comes from taxpayer money generally, but in the City of Redlands, when the military re-purposed that vehicle to us for our police department, we have not spent any taxpayer money on the vehicle," Garcia said in an interview Wednesday.

Redlands Police did not have an armored vehicle at their disposal prior to their MRAP acquisition, but they could call "any police agency that has an armored vehicle and ask their assistance, so we're dependent upon them whether they have personnel to bring the vehicle in, whether their vehicle's even available if they're not using it," Garcia said.

"There's been times we've served search warrants that are high risk search warrants, that we've had other agencies bring in an armored vehicle to move the SWAT people into position to contact the suspects."

Inside the Redlands Police MRAP: June 4 2014

Garcia and the Police Department did not bring the MRAP acquisition to the City Council for approval or discussion, public or otherwise.

"The City Council does not have to approve the acquisition of a free vehicle," Garcia said Wednesday. "As the Chief of Police, I had the opportunity to do this, and made the decision that we needed to add something like to this our department to keep our officers safe."

View from turret of Redlands Police MRAP: June 4 2014

Given the incidents local police and deputies face from time to time, it's no surprise law enforcement agencies are willing to accept free combat-ready MRAPs with roof-mounted machine gun turrets.

But as the Department of Defense continues giving away vehicles designed for "asymmetric warfare," the American Civil Liberties Union and others have criticized what they describe as the increasing militarization of local law enforcement agencies, according to an Associated Press report published by the Military Times.

 Garcia dismissed such criticism as "ignorant."

"I think that's an ignorant position that somebody would say we're militarizing our police department because we use an armored vehicle to protect our officers," Garcia said.

"If a reporter was using a camera that was a high tech camera that could see a far distance and the military was using the same camera, would we make the same accusation against the reporter, that he was militarizing his craft by using the same type piece of equipment? I don't think so.

"I think that yes there's crossover in the types of tools that we might use with the military," Garcia said. "That has nothing to do with trying to militarize a police department.

Redlands Police MRAP: June 4 2014

"I know that for us, having previously been in San Bernardino, there were a couple of times where when soldiers were going to Iraq, they came and trained with our SWAT team to learn the tactics of how to go door-to-door, how to talk to people, and how to make contact in those types of situations."

Prior to coming to Redlands in 2011, Garcia was with San Bernardino PD beginning in 1987. In San Bernardino his duties included SWAT commander, and he was "actively involved in decisions to assist military units" that were going to Iraq in the mid-2000s, he said.

"So we're not going out and getting the military to train us, but the military has at times found it beneficial to be trained by police departments. I don't think there's any issue with militarization just because we're using a similar type of vehicle."

Redlands Police personnel and the department's MRAP: June 4 2014

Documentation shows the MRAP averages about 6.8 miles per gallon, Garcia said.

"We don't get'em for their mileage, we get'em for their protection capabilities . . . Any high risk situation. We're seeing incidents in Oakland and Pittsburgh where people have shot at the police, and they were in armored vehicles and that armored vehicle protected them. Any time you have to go into the line of fire it's not something to look forward to, but it's something we willingly do because that is our role in society is to help protect people."

All photos by Guy McCarthy

For more background see:

UPDATE: Police Acquisition of Armored Vehicles, Costly Crash Under Scrutiny

UPDATE: Councilman Blasts PD's Acquisition of MRAP Vehicle, City Manager 'Not Happy'

KESQ in December:

Washington Post roundup in April this year, including mention of Banning: